A Quick Start Guide to go with that New PMR30 Smell.
Hello guys and gals this is your PMR30 Quick Start Guide.
Your PMR30 comes in this fancy hard case. There are two latches on the front of it you can pop and you’re in. The first thing you should see is your manual, please read your manual and get to know your new PMR30.
Next you've got your PMR30 and two 30 round magazines. You have a trigger lock, underneath the trigger lock you will see a tool here from HIVIZ that allows you to switch out the colors of your light pipes on your fiber optic sights. Also, you'll notice it comes with a piece of rust paper on top. Hang on to this in case you need to store your PMR30 for a long-term period of time.
You'll also see that the PMR30 comes with a chamber flag. Hang on to that so that when you go to the range and you are transporting your firearm you can put that chamber flag in there. This is so that everybody can visually see that your chamber is empty.
Not shown here, but also included, is a lifetime warranty. For more information about that visit keltecweapons.com.
Now for the fun part, let's take a look at your PMR30. You'll notice first that on the back of the pistol is where your serial number is. Make note of that, keep it in your safe, and keep it handy.
Moving to the features you'll notice that the PMR30 has an ambidextrous safety very much like a 1911. It has fiber optic sights in the rear, in the front, and on the bottom of the grip. Here you have a picatinny style rail that's great for mounting a light or a laser (or a combination of both).
Now that you’ve read our safety information on this trigger guard sticker, you can go ahead and take that off. Let's talk about the manual of arms with your PMR30. So this is your slide stop/ slide release button. In order to activate it, it does lock back on an empty magazine; however, if there's no magazine in the gun you can manually push up on the slide stop while pulling the slide to the rear until it locks into place.
This is a standard capacity, 30 round magazine for a PMR30. About ¾ of the way back on the feed lips you'll notice this little notch that is called your rim window. It is important that once you go to load the magazine these will be your witness holes. Once you see brass in this bottom hole you know that you have 30 rounds in your magazine. Do not overload your PMR30 magazine, it can damage the brass and then you might end up having feeding malfunctions. Just make sure you only load it to 30 rounds on the bottom.
You have your base plate, if you push down on the little button you can slide the base plate off. This allows you access to the spring and follower for maintenance. Now when you do this make sure you've got safety glasses on and that you're in an area where you're not going to lose your spring and/or your follower. Keep in mind this is under some pretty heavy spring tension and it will fly out of there if you lose control of the base plate and the spring.
Now it is time to tell you how to most efficiently and effectively load your PMR30 magazines. First we need to get rid of our PMR30 because we're about to use some live ammunition and you don't ever want live ammunition around firearms. Put that chamber flag back in and put the gun back in the box for safe keeping.
Let us talk about ammunition for a minute. You always want to use high quality American-made ammunition, for instance we have this CCI Maxi-Mag ammo. This is great ammunition and you don't want to use anything smaller than a 40 grain projectile. There are lots of 22 magnum manufacturers out there, CCI is a good one. Hornady, Speer, Federal they all make high quality 22 magnum ammunition.
First, start out with some live ammo. Again, you want to pay close attention to this rim window. It's about ¾ of the way back on the feed lips in the magazine. That is where the rim of your cartridge is going to start in the loading process, so you're not starting a notch here and you're not starting from the front.
The best way to load this by hand is to place the magazine in your strong hand and use your strong hand index finger to push down on the cartridges. As they go in then push back your support hand to make sure that the cartridge is seated all the way to the rear of the magazine.
This is important because you want these rounds to stack properly so that they feed properly out of the magazine. Now the PMR30 is not your typical gun so these are not your typical magazines so we highly recommend you use this technique if you don't have a speed loader.
This also eliminates denting on the brass. If you dent the brass that can also cause feed issues because it changes the shape of the cartridge. As it comes out of the magazine and goes into the chamber, if that cartridge has changed shape then you're going to have some feeding issues.
You can do this, just make sure that you're using that window and make sure that you're only putting 30 rounds in your magazine.
As a rimfire gun owner you should be aware of rim lock. Rim lock is when the round on the top is behind the round on the bottom. So what is meant by that is if the top round and the bottom round, the ammo should be all the way to the rear of the magazine while the top one should be resting on the rim below it. Rim lock is when the bottom round rim is in front of the one that's on top.
As the slide comes forward, if it's coming this way and trying to push the round this way, it's grabbing both rounds which is locking them both into the magazine because this round is not yet on top and ready to feed into the chamber.
Let's go ahead and field strip our PMR30. First thing you want to do is make sure that there's no live ammunition here in your workspace. It is also good to wear a pair of KelTec safety glasses. They are very important because you're going to be dealing with spring tension here. They don't have to be KelTec safety glasses, but we would prefer it and catch those on our website. The other thing you're going to use is your handy-dandy KelTec screwdriver. You can use just about anything that will push this small pin through the frame of the gun.
First thing we're going to do is get rid of the chamber flag. You can go ahead and drop the slide and then push the assembly pin out. You just push it to get it started, and go ahead and pull it out the other side. This is non-directional so you can actually put it on either side of the gun.
Next thing you’ll want to do is take the slide off the grip simply by just pushing it forward. Like most semi-automatic pistols you go ahead and set the lower side. To field strip the slide and barrel, go ahead and grab the recoil spring and just pull it towards the muzzle end and pull up at the same time. It comes out pretty easily and is captive so you don't have to worry about parts flying everywhere. Just be careful when you're pulling it out not to let it slip and come out of your fingers because it will shoot across the room.
The next thing you have is your buffer. This is oriented in a very particular way in the slide, so just make note of it when you take your buffer out. Then this is your barrel block, you want to slide that all the way towards the muzzle end of your slide and then that just simply lifts out and you can slide your barrel back through. That is the field strip of the slide and barrel assembly.
For the lower there is nothing to field strip. There is your frame, you've got your hammer, your ejector, and your feed ramp. We should mention that when you do field strip your PMR30, make sure that your safety is on because you don't want to drop the hammer while the slide is off the gun.
All right for cleaning your PMR30 now that we've field stripped it. We recommend Lucas Oil, Lucas Oil Extreme Duty CLP, and contact cleaner. These are great products, but there's a bunch of great products out there. Just use your favorite/quality cleaner. We should mention, you don't want to use grease ever on ANY firearm, so just stick with a basic CLP and a basic contact cleaner.
Now what you would do with your PMR30 is use the contact cleaner. Go ahead and degrease the interior of the grip of the pistol. Make sure that there's nothing in the trigger area and these springs are all clean and the hammer assembly is all clean and then go back in with the CLP.
Once the contact cleaner dries just give a little bit of CLP in the hammer area and also in the trigger area to make sure those springs are well lubricated. You don't have to use any excess oil, just get enough on there so that it's protected against the elements.
With the slide, same thing, just go ahead and hit it with some CLP to get all of that debris out of the slide (especially in the area where your extractors are). Go ahead and make sure those are really clean and again hit it with some CLP. Wipe off the excess and you're good to go there with your barrel.
Get a nice quality brush that you can run through here, so spray it with some CLP. Get in there with a nice quality brush and get all those particulates out of there. Make sure you clean the chamber very well and then go ahead and lubricate the outside of the barrel.
You don't necessarily have to lubricate the inside. These are black nitrided barrels, so they're very well protected. Then your barrel block, same thing, go ahead and brush it off with a nice nylon brush. Make sure that your springs are clean.
On the buffer you don't really have to do anything with that, except when you go to put the gun back together. Make sure that it is oriented in the proper direction.
Here we go, let's reassemble your PMR30. We’re just going to do everything in reverse order.
Step One: So go ahead and grab your slide. Next will be your barrel, it's very important to note that on your barrel, you see your feed ramp. Here that's going to be facing up, so this will be the orientation. Go ahead and drop your barrel in. Slide it all the way forward to the muzzle end.
Step Two: Next, you'll take the barrel block and this right here is where your guide rod rests. You want to make sure that that is the open side of that is towards the muzzle of the gun and you just kind of wiggle that back and forth until it falls into place after that you'll want to slide everything to the breech side of the slide.
Step Three: Go ahead and take your buffer, make sure you're orienting it the way that it came out. You'll notice that your buffer almost looks like it's a two piece but it is one piece. The thicker side is going to go towards the barrel block, and then the thin side will be up against the front of the slide.
Step Four: This is your recoil guide rod and spring. There is a hole here for the guide rod to pass through, so you just want to grab the spring firmly and place it inside the buffer. Align the spring with the hole and then just simply push forward out of the front of the slide and also push it into the barrel block so that it will snap into place properly. Now your slide assembly is complete.
Step Five: So you're going to want to take your lower, go ahead and line up the barrel block rails with the frame rails of the lower part of the gun and simply just pull the slide to the rear. Put your assembly pin in (it doesn't matter which side you push it in through). It is multi-directional, simply push it in and make sure it's all the way through the frame of the gun.
Step Six: Then do a quick little slide function check.
That is it for reassembling your PMR30. If you would like more information about your PMR30 or any of our products please visit keltecweapons.com.